If you’re a beginner formulator, one of the most confusing topics you’ll come across is understanding the difference between O/W (oil-in-water) and W/O (water-in-oil) emulsions.
Let’s simplify it once and for all.
What Is an Emulsion?
An emulsion is simply a mixture of oil and water, two liquids that don’t naturally blend. Since water and oil are immiscible, they need a “mediator” to help them mix smoothly.
Depending on the proportion of oil and water used, and the type of emulsifier, your formulation can either be O/W (oil-in-water) or W/O (water-in-oil).
Oil-in-Water (O/W) Emulsions
This type of emulsion has water as the main component (the continuous phase) and oil droplets dispersed within it.
In simple terms, a small amounts of oil are mixed into a larger quantity of water.
These emulsions are generally:
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Lightweight to medium in texture
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Easier to stabilize
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More hydrating (because of their high water content)
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Quick to absorb into the skin
Common emulsifiers used for (O/W) emulsions:
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Emulsifying Wax (E-wax)
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Olivem 1000
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Polawax
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Montanov 68
Examples of (O/W) Emulsions:
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Lotions
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Moisturizing face creams
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Light body milks
Think of your daily body lotion, smooth, light, and quick to absorb. That’s an O/W emulsion.
Water-in-Oil (W/O) Emulsions
In contrast, W/O emulsions have oil as the main component (the continuous phase) and tiny water droplets dispersed inside it.
In simple terms, a small amount of water is mixed into a larger quantity of oil.
These emulsions are generally:
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Thicker and richer in texture
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More moisturizing (due to the high oil content)
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Slower to absorb
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A bit harder to stabilize
Common emulsifiers used for (W/O) emulsions:
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Sorbitan Olivate
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Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (PGPR)
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Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol
Examples of (W/O) Emulsions:
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Heavy night creams
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Baby creams
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Barrier ointments
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Cold creams
If you’ve ever used a thick, buttery hand cream that leaves a soft protective film on your skin, that’s a W/O emulsion.
A Common Misunderstanding
Many beginner formulators think that “oil-in-water” means you literally pour the oil into the water phase, or that “water-in-oil” means adding water into the oil phase.
That’s not what these terms mean.
They refer to the ratio and the continuous phase, in other words, which liquid is in higher quantity and which surrounds the other. You can pour oil into water or vice versa, depending on your ch, what truly matters is the composition and the emulsifier system, not the pouring order.
Final Thought
So next time you see O/W or W/O, think about the balance between oil and water, not just the mixing process.
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O/W = Water-based, light, and hydrating
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W/O = Oil-based, rich, and deeply moisturizing
Once you understand this foundation, you’ll find it much easier to design your own lotions and creams, and even troubleshoot them like a pro!
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